three months later

an overgrown paddock near sunset

It’s been a little more than three months since my last published post here.

But actually, let me go back further than that. It’s been 274 days since I boarded a plane in Detroit Metro Airport, less than an hour’s drive from where I lived at the time, and left the States. I connected to my overseas flight in Dallas and crossed the international date line and on January 2nd, the land that is called Australia held that plane as it landed safely.

I spent almost six out of the last nine months in Bangkok, and I am missing Thailand and the people and her weather and loud wildlife at 2am and the spirit house in our village.

And now, I am back here, in the southern hemisphere. Back in the place where I was born and grew up, it was just recently the Autumn Equinox and is getting on into pumpkin season. Here, it is deep into spring and will soon be summer. The waxing crescent moon in the night sky hangs like it is suspended, the light moving across it in a way I am still getting used to. The stars at night have been thrown generously across the dark; there are too many of them to see. (Looking at the sky with my old glasses prescription is part of the problem.) Everywhere is big here in the south of the country: the sky is big, the land is wide, the sunset colors spread out so far. Trees bigger than the ones I grew up around are everywhere in the farms this property is part of. Spiders and birds and bugs and cows and stray cats and snakes and dogs are always nearby.

(Not as many kangaroos out this way, though.)

Am I still on a very long vacation adventure? Yes. Am I taking measures to keep myself safe from fascism? Also yes. Will I go back to Bangkok? HELL YES.

I am waking up when my alarm goes off at 9am and rolling toward the camper window by my bed to pull open the curtain and wind open the pane of glass so the morning breeze can blow in while I lie there and let my brain try and put itself back together for the day as my morning meds soak into my bloodstream.

I gained enough muscle mass and reconditioned my body enough while I was in Thailand that I can participate in the family community the way I’ve wanted to. I can wash dishes, I can do laundry and hang it on the line, I can pick up the six-year-old boy so he can feel tall. I can move heavy things. I can walk around town or around the property and wear my boots so the snakes don’t chomp on me. And when my new glasses get here in a week or two, I can put on my prescription sunglasses and do some of the driving errands.

In short, this all feels rather new. And it feels like a respite, in the way that only the daily routine of family — coffee, breakfast, laundry, lunch, errands, laughter, dinner, tickle fights, bedtime, staying up late — can be a respite. And we worked hard for this bit of peace.

I have done so many hard and scary things this year.

I didn’t think that fleeing my death would be part of my life’s history. If anyone wanted to double check to make sure I wasn’t making shit up, all they would have to do is look at the things the woman who gave birth to me is still posting on social media. Look at the image she has as her profile image, which she put up shortly after October 7th 2023. It is not lost on me that the Nazis are in my living ancestral lineage. I do not take this shame as my own; it is not my responsibility to cleanse their sins. It is my responsibility to be a person who is not a fascist. It is my responsibility to be a good community member, a good family member, a respectful dweller of the land I’m on, conscious of what I choose to do, what I choose to say, how I treat those I know, and how I treat those that I don’t.

This year may yet bring me things I did not expect, to places I didn’t know I’d see, to choices I have known I will need to make.

I had a birthday last month and now I’m forty-seven but I feel like I really don’t know how old I am any more. Who is this person that I am? I am so familiar with myself and yet the circumstances I am in feel so unfamiliar, but they aren’t scary. I am not afraid. Maybe this is what it feels like to be a child in a family where there is no fear dogging your every step the way it was when I was last a child.

Maybe this is (for me) a new timeline, not because I’ve skipped over all the bad parts of another one to get to the good part, but because my family and I have done an extraordinary thing on our way to do more extraordinary things and the real trick here is that we all get to live.

I get to live.

I am queer, trans, pagan, neurodivergent, anti-fascist, and I get to stay alive a while longer yet.

letters to my family: II

graffiti on a concrete wall in multiple languages, in the colors of Palestine

I’m kind of in a mood today. is it the upcoming new moon in Cancer or is it an energetic Sabbat hangover?! ugh

dear family,

Two specific things are on my mind and one of them is a very old wound and the other one is a recently developed piece of angst. Let’s talk about the second one!!

I think y’all know how much I am enjoying the Thai BLs I watch in particular, although it’s possible that it’s not obvious that it is extra exciting and somewhat thrilling to be in Thailand–in Bangkok–which is the place they are filmed, where most of the actors live, and where there are fan events happening every week. I live in a constantly fluctuating state of the possibility of seeing one or a handful of them every time I leave the house. I don’t go to the bigger malls yet, but when I do I will be trying to go on days when there are fan events scheduled.

Recently I had a wonderful but brief solo vacation to Vietnam, which is less than two hours’ flight away from Bangkok, and right now some of my most favorite actors are literally in Vietnam and judging from the airport photos (I know, I KNOW), some of which they posted, it looks like they took the same airline and probably the same flight that I did. TWO WEEKS LATER THAN ME. AIEEEEEEEEEEE

I’ll be fine, I’m just having some ~* feelings *~ about it.

so the first thing, yeah? the old childhood wound? it’s about war.

Specifically, it is about being a teenager and having my conservative family of origin war- and fear-mongering constantly because the US was entering into what would be called the Gulf War. Jim 1technically my father, I don’t like giving him the title because it’s a sign of respect and I am being intentionally disrespectful would turn the volume up on talk radio so that he could hear it no matter what room he was in, and it scared me badly. I still trusted him to tell me things that were true, and everything he was afraid of and therefore angry or paranoid about, he passed that along to the rest of us. I grew up terrified of war. I thought for sure it would affect us in the ways that it actually does affect people who live in the SWANA region 2South West Asia North Africa of the world, but it doesn’t affect the contiguous US geographically and probably never will. I spent my teens and young adulthood afraid of something that would never happen to me personally, as if that fear was reasonable; meanwhile I was never told that this is an entirely reasonable fear for people my exact age in a different part of the world. I was never told that we–the war machine that is the US–were actively causing this harm to those people. I grew up thinking that I was a victim, not understanding yet that I was part of a legacy of victimizers.

And so now that the US has, once again as always, taken it upon itself to cause immense harm to people in Iraq, it is an awful reminder to me of the harm I once believed was justified. That others still believe is justified. And I don’t want to let the war machine of the United States off the hook by using a neutral pronoun, either. Many choices, some made by us in my generation, some made by people in different kinds of power, all of them made by someone with enough privilege to be afforded the luxury of a choice, have led us to this place and will continue to lead us to this place. We will always have blood on our hands and in our mouths.

I have started watching the news again. Because I cannot be unaware of what is happening, and even though the sound of his voice makes me want to scream, I have to hear from his own mouth what the orange deathmachine is saying, because even if it’s a speech someone else wrote, he is using his voice to communicate it. When atrocities are being done in my name, I should know which carefully phrased statements are being made about them.

*topic change screech* I haven’t seen a ghost yet

Listen, y’all know I love paranormal and metaphysical shit. You know that about me. So you’re probably not surprised that I’m disappointed that I have not seen (or heard) any ghosts in Thailand yet.

Maybe it’s because our rental house here is in a village and everyone is pretty close together, so if ghosts are making noise it’s probably blending into all the other noise. However, I am personally disappointed in my lack of woogity 3this is our family & friend group’s term for paranormal/metaphysical shit adventures so far. I will have to try harder to be in places where there might be ghosts. Except not in a dumbass kind of way.

a handful of things I’m extremely into right now:

Being in new places and experiencing new things has enriched my personal collection of things that bring me joy. Here are a few new ones:

snacks & convenience stores

One of my new favorite things to do is buying a handful (or an armful) of snacks at a convenience store–a 7-Eleven or a Circle K–and shove all of them into my bag except one, which I will open, and eat as I’m walking around. I did this with an ice cream sandwich while I was walking through the Old Quarter in Hanoi recently because 1) I needed a boost to my blood sugar so I could get where I was going, and 2) I needed a visible reason to be ignoring people who were eagerly trying to get customers for the roadside restaurant and bar tables. I had no idea that walking down an alley with an ice cream sandwich in my hot little hands, swinging my arms and dodging motorbikes and other people also walking, would be my new favorite thing, but it is.

I’ve finally learned that single serving snacks are not some kind of sick joke (I used to always buy the ‘family size’ bag of Doritos so that I could have Doritos for at least most of a week if I was careful), but in fact it’s a beautiful thing to be taking such enjoyment in the moment that you celebrate it by getting an armful of whatever looks yummy at that point in time, and then you eat all of it. Perfection.

layered tank tops

My personal style has always been very influenced by the clothes habits I had in the mid 90s to mid 2000s, which consisted of oversized plaid flannel shirts, baggy boyfriend jeans, low-rise cargo pants, stompy boots, layered tank tops, and band t-shirts over long sleeves. It has been decades of sadness where I could not find any of these clothing items any more because they were out of style, and even the secondhand shops didn’t have them any more. I accidentally rediscovered layering my tank tops while I was in Vietnam, because I kept sweating and sweating and in a haze of air conditioning after probably the second shower of the day, I put two thin tank tops on at once and suddenly remembered that I used to do this on purpose all the time.

Next up: find out if my constant search for baggy streetwear-style pants will be successful. I promise I will update you if I find something good.

ramen and eggs

I didn’t know that ramen actually TASTES GOOD. At least, it tastes good here, even though it’s packaged and not freshly made; Vincent taught me how to add a few things that make it even better, including but not limited to:

  • mixing some of the hot pasta water into the oil & spice packet mix
  • melting a slice of packaged cheese with the just-drained hot ramen noodles and spices
  • a generous squirt of other sauces (current favorite combo is gochujang sauce and some japanese mayo)
  • an egg, either overeasy or scrambled

SPEAKING OF EGGS, in Thailand there are so many beautiful and delicious eggs, and I’m eating so many eggs right now. I love eggs. I don’t love eggs in the United States because they have made me feel sick for decades now. I guess that’s a US problem because that doesn’t happen here. Go figure.

I love y’all. I miss y’all. how are you doing?

I want to hear all about it.

xox,
Nix


epilogue:

Welcome to the hell we’re living in
And the ending of the world, we’re witnessing
You can cry for help, no one’s listening
No, no one’s listening
Welcome to the hell we’re living in
And the overexposure’s sickening
You can cry for help, no one’s listening
No one’s listening, so listen in

Watch the stars walk the red carpet
Watch the cops shoot the wrong girl in her own apartment
Become a slave to the free market
Where you pick up the gun or become the target
Watch the downfall, watch the closing credits
It’s over, forget it
You know where it’s headed, straight to the gutter
Watch as the winter warms up like summer
Watch it all through your new smartphone
With a battery mined by a child in a war zone
Then pretend to be ignorant, watch the cognitive dissonance
Watch the court get stacked (Stacked), the bad guy win (Win)
Watch, ’cause you’re looking at the mess you’re in
This phone is a mirror, and I am just a reflection

–selection of lyrics from BRAINROT by grandson [watch the music video]

I want to say something here after these remarkably upsetting lyrics–it does feel like this right now for a lot of us. It feels like we’re constantly having to consume things even if we don’t want to. It feels like we are screaming and nobody hears us. It feels like when other people are screaming, nobody cares. It feels like the whole world is upset and at the same time like no one will do a damn thing. And I just want to say: if I care, and if you care, and if we are doing at least SOMETHING to undo this disease of harm and exploitation that we were all born into, we are going in a better direction.

If I care and I’m listening, and if you care and you’re listening, then how can we say nobody’s listening?

featured image is a photo by Ash Hayes on Unsplash

Footnotes

  • 1
    technically my father, I don’t like giving him the title because it’s a sign of respect and I am being intentionally disrespectful
  • 2
    South West Asia North Africa
  • 3
    this is our family & friend group’s term for paranormal/metaphysical shit

letters to my family: I

Ash cat sitting in the catio in the sunshine

explainer: I have needed a better format to talk about my travels and wanderings and suddenly had the idea to write some of my updates as letters, since all of my family and I are not all in the same place at the same time right now. I am always missing some of them, and I am always wanting to tell them things. maybe this will help me with that.


dear family,

I’m here in Thailand and most of you are in Australia and various other places. I miss you all a LOT. When I think about it too much, it’s too heavy and I start to tear up, like right now. I hope you know that every experience I have is immediately filtered into a list of things I want to tell you about.

Y’all know that I visited Vietnam recently (you saw the pictures and read my real-time group chat messages), but there are some details I will share more about since I didn’t have time to express all of it at the time. You know how I am, I take days and weeks to think through something for long enough to understand enough about it that I feel like I can share it with others.

I think in my next letter I will be able to talk more about what it was like to visit Vietnam and what I feel like I am keeping with me from that experience. I recorded a series of voice notes about it and I’ll use those to help me organize my thoughts later.

in the tropics

I keep forgetting that I’m staying in the tropics. The weather is tropical. The humidity and expected rainfall and the insects and reptiles and birds and plants, all tropical. Every time I go outside and am like, “wow it’s really fucking humid out here,” I have a delayed face-palm moment. I guess you can take the dragon out of Michigan but you can’t easily take Michigan out of the dragon, because my pasty-white cold-weather body is still gauging atmospheric weather data against all the decades of Michigan summer humidity and heat. Which is to say: it does not compare.

The humidity here feels like, to me, if you’ve gone into a bathroom where someone else was already running a very hot shower and the air was full of hot steam humidity. It feels like you could almost swallow it, it’s so thick sometimes. And any smells at all that are in the air are very apparent because they hang in the water droplets and you can almost taste them. Which is a little gross, especially because there is enough air pollution that the air often smells bad.

Sometimes I look out the window in the late afternoon and I see the pattern of clouds across the silvery sky and I think to myself, being here feels like being in a place where the sun is always a few hours away from setting, but it never really does. It does get dark — when the sun does set, it gets dark really quickly — but at two in the morning, there are birds that start singing. I don’t know why they’re up at 2am, but if I haven’t fallen asleep by then, it’s pretty difficult to get to sleep until they stop talking. Maybe it’s partly the light pollution; I’m sure that away from the city lights, it’s probably pitch black outside in the early morning hours. But here in Bangkok, even in the suburban areas away from the heart of the city, it’s light enough to read a book all night long. Even though my curtains are drawn, my bedroom is never fully dark. I’ve grown accustomed to it now and I don’t need my eye mask all the time to sleep, but for five or six weeks it was difficult to manage.

Yesterday Bee and I went to do banking and grocery errands, and discovered that one of the vine-y plants in the yard has shot out a single vine that is probably about seven or eight feet long now, growing directly toward the house, crawling across the tiled area where you’d park a car if you had one. (Thank goodness I don’t need to try and drive here, I would never get anywhere I was going because I’m not good at driving directly into traffic in the way most people do here.) The plants grow so quickly during this rainy season that it’s extremely apparent that plants are living things. It might be relatively slow motion, but that vine went from nothing to almost touching the wall of the house within a day or so.

Back to the humidity — even walking in the mall where there is air conditioning everywhere, if I walk too fast (which I tend to do without consciously realizing it), I end up sweating down the backs of my legs. The first time it happened, I was standing in line at the store to get a Thailand SIM card, and I was new enough to the environment that I could not figure out at first why there was a trickle of water sliding in a ticklish way down the back of my calf. My best advice: wear loose pants or shorts, bring your water and drink it, take breaks, and don’t do large bursts of activity in the middle of the day when it’s hottest. Even if you’re inside an air conditioned building. Additional advice: wear cotton or linen or maybe silk, because if the fabric covering your body isn’t breathable you’re going to feel sick a lot sooner.

how I’m occupying my time: Thai BLs, kpop, and language learning

I am still watching Asian dramas, and my current watchlists are almost entirely Thai BLs. There are some really good ones that were recommended to me by Ash, and I’ve also been working my way through dozens that I am finding as I comb through tags on Instagram and YouTube, and following links on MyDramaList and the extremely helpful World of BL website. I recently finished, among others: Not Me and The Eclipse, both of which tenderized me emotionally. Both of those dramas are in a small handful of things I’ve watched that give me the feeling of witnessing a great and terrible truth: something that I have also experienced, something that I crave, something that is deeply true, something that is heartbreaking, something that is worth sacrificing for. I don’t know how to describe this using one or two words. I just know how it makes me feel.

If anyone thinks Thai BLs are only fluff, just wait for the gut punch when you finally watch one that hits you directly in the place your heart already aches.

this month’s kpop is almost Too Much but that won’t stop me

When I’m not working on logistics for the family, I’m listening to my monthly playlist, which this month is top-heavy with new music from ENHYPHEN (DESIRE: UNLEASH), Stray Kids (Hollow), and ATEEZ (GOLDEN HOUR: Part.3). If you’re a Spotify person, you can follow those links to the albums there, and in the sidebar here on my website you’ll see my current On Repeat playlist which right now is going to include a lot of this new music.

catch me learning Welsh, Mandarin, and Thai all at the same time (I mean, I’m trying to)

I recently stopped using Duolingo after over 600 days of continuous practice. I started out learning Cymraeg (Welsh), and shifted to Mandarin about a year ago, but I realized that I do not have even the slightest bit of conversational literacy in either language, which I think is because of the way that Duolingo approaches learning. Which is to say, I am not learning anything much.

I started using the Hanly app to help me learn the hanzi (Chinese characters) because I couldn’t understand them at all in Duolingo, and after about a month I already understood a few fundamentals so well that I was able to read some characters based only on my memory; which was one more reason to drop Duolingo, because something that takes an average of 30-40 intensive learning minutes a day but doesn’t result in practical understanding is not worth keeping.

There are other reasons I decided not to use Duolingo going forward, including their disappointing decision to stop developing the Welsh language course and discontinuing working alongside the National Centre for Learning Welsh. I don’t like their use of AI in the context of language learning, especially since so much of how we understand and use language is contextual and subjective, which AI can’t replicate.

in conclusion, I have lunch to eat and chores to do

By the time I’ve finished editing a photo and posting this, it’ll be past lunch time, but right now I need to eat and help with chores. Even when the world is topsy-turvy or literally burning, I still have the privilege of having food that I can eat for lunch, and we still need to keep the cat fluff cleaned up, so off I go.

xox,
Nix


epilogue:

I’m watching Feud, which is a currently-airing Chinese historical drama (high fantasy), starring Joseph Zeng and Bai Lu. This is the end credits song, 对你说 (Say to You), sung by Joseph Zeng. It’s so delicate and heartbreaking.


featured image is a photo I took of Ash cat in our sunny catio yesterday afternoon